Tobaski Fever Hotting Up

Everyone is getting ready for the celebration of Tobaski, the Festival of Sacrifice (otherwise known as Eid al-Adha). It promises to be a big celebration, with all Gambians (both Muslim and non-Muslim) going back to their family homes to celebrate. Tobaski is due to fall on the 6^th of November , so everyone is in preparation mode, buying new clothes and amassing lots of tasty food (most families will try to buy a live ram to slaughter and eat on the day). It’s an expensive affair, and so can be a real struggle for people. This is particularly true for the head of the family, who may lose face if he doesn’t have enough money to provide the necessary goods. Thus, promotional offers like the one in the photo above are very popular. I’ve never seen live animals offered as prizes by mobile phone companies before!

Diwali in The Gambia  – Last Wednesday was Diwali. As one of my fellow volunteers, Soumita, is from India it was the perfect excuse to do a party!  Soumita decorated her house with lots of candles, doing her best to do justice to the Festival of Light. We had some nice food and I was treated to a bit more of an explanation as to what Diwali is all about (in particular, the fascinating story of Rama and Sita). I guess this evening illustrates an interesting side to life out here. Many of the foreigners here do their best to support each other, knowing that most are in the same boat of being a stranger in a foreign land, someone who is far away from home. It also shows the randomness of how things can be – a British person celebrating a Hindu festival in Africa! Anyway, it was a lovely evening and I was honoured to be part of it.

Off to the countryside – yes, finally I’m escaping the city and will be going off to rural Gambia for a few days. Horaay! I’ve been asked to do some work on creating a promotional film for a rural disability organisation, based in Basse (to the very east of the country). I’ll be covering the support the organisation offers and the lives of some of the disabled people there, should be fascinating.  Anyway, I depart on Sunday and a six hour car drive awaits. I’m really looking forward to seeing more of the countryside and experiencing a bit of rural life. Expect some photos next week... 

Lots of love and a big hug from an excited volunteer! I hope all is well with you, take care,

Robert

Never Smile at a Crocodile

Last weekend I went to Katchikali Crocodile Pool, a swamp which holds special importance to local people. Women who are having fertility problems will go bathe in the waters, believing that this will help them to conceive. My own interests lay more in the reptilian inhabitants of the pool, rather than its baby-giving properties, but nevertheless this tradition is fascinating.

The visit offered me an amazing opportunity to get up close to the crocs – what amazing creatures they are! What struck me most is just how still they lie; they are like statues standing still with their jaws wide open. They blend into the natural surroundings, so it’s quite easy to wander near one without noticing... I eventually got the courage to stroke one of the “more tame” ones, and quickly retreated as soon as it started moving (much to the amusement of the on looking Gambians). I was impressed by the courage of the local cats, which seemed quite happy to wander past the crocodiles – they put me to shame!

Bakau Fish Market – Say hello to Captain Lamin! Lamin is a retired fisherman who still enjoys wandering around the docks. He approached me whilst I took a stroll around the fish market, and very kindly offered to show me around. First up was a running commentary on all of the different types of fish (kingfish is apparently the biggest earner!). He then took me “behind the scenes” to the area in which they preserve fish (either by smoking them or by covering them in salt and drying them in the hot sun). The smoke houses were paid for by Japanese traders, who in return get a guaranteed supply of some of the jellyfish and octopus the local fishermen catch. After my 30 minute tour I bade a fond farewell to the Captain and made my way home feeling happy. The life of a fisherman always appealed to me after childhood encounters in Cornwall, the Gambian variety also seem to have a nice lifestyle too.

Visit to GOVI – my search for extra work has led me to some of the local disability organisations. First up was a trip to GOVI, the Gambian Organisation for the Visually Impaired. I have a particularly soft spot for work with the visually impaired, having taught several visually impaired people whilst in Eastern Poland. I have to say that I was impressed by GOVI, and the school it runs. The staff seemed dedicated and hardworking, and the children were studious and very welcoming. It was just a shame to see how under-resourced the school was – they had hardly any tactile resources, and even lacked the basics such as wax-sticks (used to create shapes that blind people can feel). All of this did leave me feeling like I could have a real role here though; hopefully I can find ways in which to help [watch this space].

Last week’s blog began with facts from the United Nations. I thought I’d end this week’s blog with a few opinions that some local people have about The Gambia:

·         “Women make up about 80% of the population, whilst men the other 20%”. Unless every household is hiding away vast numbers of women, this statement is most likely untrue. However, it is seemingly a handy trump card some male Gambians have used with me when trying to justify polygamy.

·         “We have this problem because this is Africa”. This is a commonly used excuse for any problem that occurs (e.g. power cuts, inefficiencies, over-bureaucratic work practices, etc). I’m really glad that I’ve had the chance to see life in another developing African country, as otherwise I might fall for this catch-all excuse. No doubt the surrounding conditions are difficult, but some African states have managed to make the best out of challenging circumstances. The “it’s like that because we’re in Africa” argument doesn’t wash particularly well with me. Harsh words I know!

·         “Groundnuts are an aphrodisiac”. This statement may be a cunning plan to increase groundnut exportation (or the birth rates!)

On that note, it’s time for me to go. Many best wishes from The Gambia, take care of yourselves,

Robert

Stat Attack

I think it’s high time that I write some introductory information about The Gambia, so that you all have a bit of a better idea as to what life is like out here. According to the United Nations:

The Gambia is ranked 151 out of 169 countries on the Human Development Index

The average per capita income over a year is approximately $400 (about £250).

Poverty is increasing – in 2003 59% were classed as “poor”, living on less than $1 a day. Now 61% live on less than $1 a day.

The mean length of schooling stands at 2.8 years.

25% of women are literate, compared to 48% of men.

65% of the population have access to safe water.

Youth (0-25 years old) makes up approximately 60% of the population. 40% of the youth of working age are unemployed.

As one can see, The Gambia faces many challenges. There is a lot of work to be done to help ensure that Gambians have the same life opportunities and access to education that other nations enjoy. Organisations such as the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund have been active in The Gambia for many years, but as one can see the levels of poverty have actually increased under their watch. Policies, such as the setting of a 24% interest rate (as stipulated by the World Bank), have often been seen as misguided, leading to calls from development charities for a re-think.

So what else for this week’s blog entry?

National Volunteering Network – whilst my work is primarily with the Ministry of Education, I’m also starting to become involved with Gambia’s national volunteering network (something I should be able to contribute to, having worked with a similar kind of network in Mongolia). The Network is in its infancy, but is hoping to do a variety of things to promote volunteerism in Gambia. The Red Cross, the UN and some small Gambian organisations are aiming to jointly organise an event for International Volunteers’ Day on December the 5^th. Watch this space...

Blackout at the Office - I guess the main thing that characterised this week for me was the five day power cut that we faced in my workplace. As a result, pretty much all work stopped in my department (the work of about 30 people). I do not feel like I should discuss the details of exactly why we’ve had a lack of electricity over the internet, but anyway – this is a good example of some of the problems that a developing country faces. It’s frustrating, but also a good educational experience for me. I just hope that power is back in time for next Monday!

Lots of love and a big hug to you all, take care and have a good week ahead,

Robert

Football's Coming Home

On Saturday I had the pleasure of going to see Gambia take on the mighty Burkina Faso in the national stadium. I live relatively close to the stadium, so I was glad to finally have the chance to step inside and see a match. True to form, we were treated to a football match “Gambian style” – no pies and hot dogs here! Instead women and children walked around the stands with oranges and groundnuts, doing their best to make a few extra Dalasis. As Gambia is a predominantly Muslim country many supporters got their prayer mats out during the first half to say their five o’clock prayers. It was a strange but equally heart-warming sight to see supporters praying whilst the players on the pitch continued playing. The more fervent fans (football-wise) waited until half-time to pray though.

The game itself was quite fun. It was an international match so there was a bit more pomp and ceremony; we were treated to the national anthems at the start. Tiny Gambia almost sprang a shock, scoring in the 50^th minute with a headed goal. However, party poopers Burkina got a last-minute equaliser to deny the “Black Scorpions” a famous scalp. Gambia’s Belgian coach Paul Pot should be pleased with the performance though. Fingers crossed it will be enough to help him temporarily forget the cruel joke his parents played when naming him.

Daytrip to Banjul – As some of you may know, Banjul is the capital of The Gambia. However, due to Banjul’s small size (it’s basically an island) all the administration buildings, tourist facilities, shops and workers’ houses that you would normally associate with a capital city have spread out to the surrounding area, commonly known as the Kombos.  Up to this point I had yet to set foot in Banjul itself – high time to correct this!

Banjul is usually a buzz of activity, a complete nightmare to get around. Thus, I decided to visit on a Sunday, when things were a lot quieter. The first thing one notices are the quality of the roads. Everything is nice and smooth, very few potholes. The President and dignitaries are ensured a comfortable journey to and from the parliament building. Upon arrival one is greeted by Arch 22, a large monument commemorating the coup which overthrew the previous regime on the 22^nd of July, 1994.

Aside from all the government buildings Banjul has a relatively busy port, transporting goods to and from The Gambia. The port is also home to a transporter ferry, taking people across the River Gambia. This ferry is a must for the Senegalese traders, anxious to take a short cut when transporting things from one side of their own country to the other (the “hot dog sausage” of Gambia separates the North of Senegal from the South). Traders rush to be the first in the queue each morning – a wise idea as latecomers have been known to wait around for 10/12 hours...

It was nice to see a bit of Banjul, but I’m pleased that I don’t work there myself. The journey to and from the capital is quite long and tiring during the rush hour and it can probably be quite a hectic and stressful place at times. I’m happy enough as it is in the Kombos, away from all the crowds...

Family Trees – After several weeks of being confused when people mentioned they had 16 brothers, 18 sisters and 3 mothers I decided to get to the bottom of this mystery. My Wollof language teacher kindly obliged, and as such I am now in the possession of a clear diagram explaining all (please feel free to click on the photograph to the right).

The traditional family unit in The Gambia is worthy of a lesson in its own right. Most striking of all is the potential pool of wives that a son in a family has. Traditionally he would be expected to marry either one of his father’s sister’s children or his mother’s brother’s children. I don’t think my cousins Tiffany and Genevieve would be too impressed with this system, and as they are both “tradition traitors” (they’re already married) I’m in a tricky situation. The children of my mother’s sister and father’s brother are all no go areas, being considered “brothers” and “sisters”, so that’s another avenue closed off. Hmph!

The issue of having numerous “mothers” and “fathers” also arises. Polygamy plays its part in this, as does the traditional Muslim rule that when a husband dies the brother of the deceased should take care of the now widowed wife. These factors, combined with the fact that brothers and sisters help bring up all the children in the extended family, mean that one’s father’s brother is often referred to as a “father” too, and that your mother’s sister is another “mother” to you. Confusingly, aunties and uncles still exist, but only your mother’s brothers and father’s sisters qualify. Got all of that?!

Ok, fingers crossed some of that is of interest to you. Have a great rest of the week, many best wishes and take care of yourselves,

Robert

Dinner by Candlelight anyone?

The last week has been punctuated by many power cuts. Every single one of the last seven evenings I’ve been treated to a clear view of the stars, as all the artificial, electric lights in the neighbourhood have been off. It’s quite surreal to have complete darkness in the middle of a city. I took a walk around my local streets and could see little candle lights through people’s windows, it's really quite beautiful. My own home is awash with candles at the moment, I’m trying my best to create a nice atmosphere in the evenings. It all feels quite romantic - that is until I spot the lizard that’s sat next to me...

Power cuts are a common feature out here in the Gambia, and a good way of seeing the poverty divide. Anyone who can afford it buys a back-up electricity generator that runs on petrol, so for them the impact of power cuts is minimal – one just takes a short walk to the generator, flicks a switch and normal service resumes. For the rest of us plebs (myself and 95% of the population) we are faced with regular power cuts at work and at home. I quite enjoy evenings by candlelight, but I’m sure the locals would prefer something a little bit more reliable...

My work - So, what exactly am I supposed to be doing here? Well, my job is to help the Ministry of Education with a project that uses national (Gambian) volunteers to fill gaps in secondary schools. The Ministry recruits newly trained graduates and places them in rural schools for an academic year. Rural schools are in particular need of help as they are understaffed. Going to a rural location often entails a drop in living standards (some locations still don’t have electricity or running water) and the distance from friends and family can be tough, thus it is not a popular choice for teachers. Having said that, the Ministry allocates all teachers to schools every three years, so teachers often have no choice where they go! In theory this may sound like a good solution to addressing the teaching gap in the countryside. In reality, however, as soon as teachers find out they are going to a rural school many of them quit their job!

So if going to the countryside is such a tough option why are these young volunteers interested? Well, many of them seem keen to give something back to the nation. Some feel that they are the privileged few, those who managed to get to university. Thus they are keen to give one year of their lives back to The Gambia in order to help other young people get access the same levels of education. Two of the volunteers have separately quoted John F. Kennedy's words “ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country” back to me. Other volunteers are keen to see what life is like in the countryside, having spent their whole lives growing up in the more developed Kombos.

The idea of the project is very good, and the work we’re doing should prove useful as other organisations and government departments gradually start to use national volunteerism in their work. However, it is clear that this work will be difficult for me! Things move frustratingly slowly here... Fingers crossed I’ll be able to overcome this, and the other challenges that may present themselves, so as to make a difference. Wish me luck!

Local music – whilst not necessarily my “cup of tea”, Gambians seem to be very much into reggae, hip hop and Senegalese music. This is the soundtrack to my minibus journeys around the city; every taxi driver seems to let the day pass him by with large doses of reggae beats. One day at work I decided to check exactly how popular Western music was, and asked how many people knew The Beatles. Nobody. Elvis Presley? Nope. It never ceases to astound me how in some part of the world The Beatles are so ingrained into musical culture (e.g. in Mongolia they were massive – Ulaanbaatar has a monument dedicated to them), whereas in other they are completely unknown. Bizarrely enough, my office all seemed to know the obscure 90s pop sensation Whigfield though...

A big hug and lots of love from The Gambia, take care of yourself,

Robert