Monday, October 24, 2011

Never Smile at a Crocodile




Last weekend I went to Katchikali Crocodile Pool, a swamp which holds special importance to local people. Women who are having fertility problems will go bathe in the waters, believing that this will help them to conceive. My own interests lay more in the reptilian inhabitants of the pool, rather than its baby-giving properties, but nevertheless this tradition is fascinating.

The visit offered me an amazing opportunity to get up close to the crocs – what amazing creatures they are! What struck me most is just how still they lie; they are like statues standing still with their jaws wide open. They blend into the natural surroundings, so it’s quite easy to wander near one without noticing... I eventually got the courage to stroke one of the “more tame” ones, and quickly retreated as soon as it started moving (much to the amusement of the on looking Gambians). I was impressed by the courage of the local cats, which seemed quite happy to wander past the crocodiles – they put me to shame!

Bakau Fish Market – Say hello to Captain Lamin! Lamin is a retired fisherman who still enjoys wandering around the docks. He approached me whilst I took a stroll around the fish market, and very kindly offered to show me around. First up was a running commentary on all of the different types of fish (kingfish is apparently the biggest earner!). He then took me “behind the scenes” to the area in which they preserve fish (either by smoking them or by covering them in salt and drying them in the hot sun). The smoke houses were paid for by Japanese traders, who in return get a guaranteed supply of some of the jellyfish and octopus the local fishermen catch. After my 30 minute tour I bade a fond farewell to the Captain and made my way home feeling happy. The life of a fisherman always appealed to me after childhood encounters in Cornwall, the Gambian variety also seem to have a nice lifestyle too.

Visit to GOVI – my search for extra work has led me to some of the local disability organisations. First up was a trip to GOVI, the Gambian Organisation for the Visually Impaired. I have a particularly soft spot for work with the visually impaired, having taught several visually impaired people whilst in Eastern Poland. I have to say that I was impressed by GOVI, and the school it runs. The staff seemed dedicated and hardworking, and the children were studious and very welcoming. It was just a shame to see how under-resourced the school was – they had hardly any tactile resources, and even lacked the basics such as wax-sticks (used to create shapes that blind people can feel). All of this did leave me feeling like I could have a real role here though; hopefully I can find ways in which to help [watch this space].

Last week’s blog began with facts from the United Nations. I thought I’d end this week’s blog with a few opinions that some local people have about The Gambia:

·         “Women make up about 80% of the population, whilst men the other 20%”. Unless every household is hiding away vast numbers of women, this statement is most likely untrue. However, it is seemingly a handy trump card some male Gambians have used with me when trying to justify polygamy.

·         “We have this problem because this is Africa”. This is a commonly used excuse for any problem that occurs (e.g. power cuts, inefficiencies, over-bureaucratic work practices, etc). I’m really glad that I’ve had the chance to see life in another developing African country, as otherwise I might fall for this catch-all excuse. No doubt the surrounding conditions are difficult, but some African states have managed to make the best out of challenging circumstances. The “it’s like that because we’re in Africa” argument doesn’t wash particularly well with me. Harsh words I know!

·         “Groundnuts are an aphrodisiac”. This statement may be a cunning plan to increase groundnut exportation (or the birth rates!)

On that note, it’s time for me to go. Many best wishes from The Gambia, take care of yourselves,

Robert

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