Journeys in the North

Last weekend I boarded a ferry and ventured into new territory, the other side of the River Gambia... The journey was an experience in itself, with the ferry ride across the river a great chance to take in the beautiful sea. I then boarded a minibus to take me further eastwards, which would have been another chance to take in more scenery, had it not been for all the bodies around me – the minibus was filled up to the brim, with about 20 people in a vehicle meant for 10. At least I got a closer view of the various fashion styles in The Gambia!

After a journey of about 3 hours I finally arrived in Kerewan, one of the main towns on the north side of the country. I spent a great time with some of the VSO and Peace Corps volunteers there, with whom we had a lovely bonfire by a nearby pier. Lots of happy memories! Waking up with sore heads, we bundled onto another minibus (this time not so packed) to head for Farafenni, a market town by the border with Senegal. I got to see my first “lumo”, an open-air market filled with hundreds of market sellers. The travelling experience was completed with a horse and cart ride back to the town centre. 

I had a great time and saw many beautiful things – I love going to the Gambian countryside, it’s so peaceful, the people are friendlier and the surroundings look beautiful. To see a few of the photos I took please feel welcome to see my Picasa photo gallery. 

A Gambian Woman on the World Stage - this week a Gambian made the international news. No mean feat for the smallest country in Africa, with a population of only 1.5. million! Fatou Bensoud has been appointed the new Chief Prosecutor for the International Criminal Court, a big role considering all the high profile cases that are coming our way in 2012. Many commentators seem to approve of an African becoming the next Chief Prosecutor, considering all the African ex-leaders and politicians that are likely to be tried in the Hague in the future.

The Gambian Government has been pushing for more women to take higher roles in society, and has been encouraging more girls to stay on at school. Hopefully Fatou Bensoud will be another role model for young Gambian women, encouraging them to aspire for more. You can read reports on this story on the BBC and the France 24 websites.  


I’m soon going to be heading back to the UK for Christmas. However, I’ll continue to write up my musings on The Gambia though, so keep your eyes peeled for future postings! There should also be another film on the way too... For now though, many best wishes from a hot and sunny West Africa,

Robert

Never Smile at a Crocodile

Last weekend I went to Katchikali Crocodile Pool, a swamp which holds special importance to local people. Women who are having fertility problems will go bathe in the waters, believing that this will help them to conceive. My own interests lay more in the reptilian inhabitants of the pool, rather than its baby-giving properties, but nevertheless this tradition is fascinating.

The visit offered me an amazing opportunity to get up close to the crocs – what amazing creatures they are! What struck me most is just how still they lie; they are like statues standing still with their jaws wide open. They blend into the natural surroundings, so it’s quite easy to wander near one without noticing... I eventually got the courage to stroke one of the “more tame” ones, and quickly retreated as soon as it started moving (much to the amusement of the on looking Gambians). I was impressed by the courage of the local cats, which seemed quite happy to wander past the crocodiles – they put me to shame!

Bakau Fish Market – Say hello to Captain Lamin! Lamin is a retired fisherman who still enjoys wandering around the docks. He approached me whilst I took a stroll around the fish market, and very kindly offered to show me around. First up was a running commentary on all of the different types of fish (kingfish is apparently the biggest earner!). He then took me “behind the scenes” to the area in which they preserve fish (either by smoking them or by covering them in salt and drying them in the hot sun). The smoke houses were paid for by Japanese traders, who in return get a guaranteed supply of some of the jellyfish and octopus the local fishermen catch. After my 30 minute tour I bade a fond farewell to the Captain and made my way home feeling happy. The life of a fisherman always appealed to me after childhood encounters in Cornwall, the Gambian variety also seem to have a nice lifestyle too.

Visit to GOVI – my search for extra work has led me to some of the local disability organisations. First up was a trip to GOVI, the Gambian Organisation for the Visually Impaired. I have a particularly soft spot for work with the visually impaired, having taught several visually impaired people whilst in Eastern Poland. I have to say that I was impressed by GOVI, and the school it runs. The staff seemed dedicated and hardworking, and the children were studious and very welcoming. It was just a shame to see how under-resourced the school was – they had hardly any tactile resources, and even lacked the basics such as wax-sticks (used to create shapes that blind people can feel). All of this did leave me feeling like I could have a real role here though; hopefully I can find ways in which to help [watch this space].

Last week’s blog began with facts from the United Nations. I thought I’d end this week’s blog with a few opinions that some local people have about The Gambia:

·         “Women make up about 80% of the population, whilst men the other 20%”. Unless every household is hiding away vast numbers of women, this statement is most likely untrue. However, it is seemingly a handy trump card some male Gambians have used with me when trying to justify polygamy.

·         “We have this problem because this is Africa”. This is a commonly used excuse for any problem that occurs (e.g. power cuts, inefficiencies, over-bureaucratic work practices, etc). I’m really glad that I’ve had the chance to see life in another developing African country, as otherwise I might fall for this catch-all excuse. No doubt the surrounding conditions are difficult, but some African states have managed to make the best out of challenging circumstances. The “it’s like that because we’re in Africa” argument doesn’t wash particularly well with me. Harsh words I know!

·         “Groundnuts are an aphrodisiac”. This statement may be a cunning plan to increase groundnut exportation (or the birth rates!)

On that note, it’s time for me to go. Many best wishes from The Gambia, take care of yourselves,

Robert

Stat Attack

I think it’s high time that I write some introductory information about The Gambia, so that you all have a bit of a better idea as to what life is like out here. According to the United Nations:

The Gambia is ranked 151 out of 169 countries on the Human Development Index

The average per capita income over a year is approximately $400 (about £250).

Poverty is increasing – in 2003 59% were classed as “poor”, living on less than $1 a day. Now 61% live on less than $1 a day.

The mean length of schooling stands at 2.8 years.

25% of women are literate, compared to 48% of men.

65% of the population have access to safe water.

Youth (0-25 years old) makes up approximately 60% of the population. 40% of the youth of working age are unemployed.

As one can see, The Gambia faces many challenges. There is a lot of work to be done to help ensure that Gambians have the same life opportunities and access to education that other nations enjoy. Organisations such as the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund have been active in The Gambia for many years, but as one can see the levels of poverty have actually increased under their watch. Policies, such as the setting of a 24% interest rate (as stipulated by the World Bank), have often been seen as misguided, leading to calls from development charities for a re-think.

So what else for this week’s blog entry?

National Volunteering Network – whilst my work is primarily with the Ministry of Education, I’m also starting to become involved with Gambia’s national volunteering network (something I should be able to contribute to, having worked with a similar kind of network in Mongolia). The Network is in its infancy, but is hoping to do a variety of things to promote volunteerism in Gambia. The Red Cross, the UN and some small Gambian organisations are aiming to jointly organise an event for International Volunteers’ Day on December the 5^th. Watch this space...

Blackout at the Office - I guess the main thing that characterised this week for me was the five day power cut that we faced in my workplace. As a result, pretty much all work stopped in my department (the work of about 30 people). I do not feel like I should discuss the details of exactly why we’ve had a lack of electricity over the internet, but anyway – this is a good example of some of the problems that a developing country faces. It’s frustrating, but also a good educational experience for me. I just hope that power is back in time for next Monday!

Lots of love and a big hug to you all, take care and have a good week ahead,

Robert