Pros and Cons - Part 2

Following on from last week's post, I'm using this blog entry to focus on some of the positives of life in The Gambia. Enjoy...

Inter-faith relations - This was the first time I lived in a predominantly Muslim country, an experience in its own right. I could go on for hours about poligamy (a widespread practice in The Gambia), or how it felt to have Arabic prayers being the soundtrack to much of my daily life. However, what I'd like to focus on in this blog is one of the success stories for The Gambia - the way in which religions respect each other. Whilst The Gambia is largely Muslim, it is still home to many Christians. One hears a lot about the problems and tensions between religious communities around the world (and even closer to home, in the UK), so I was curious as to how the communities would interact. All the guidebooks state that Gambia is a peace loving nation, in which everyone gets on. I'm delighted to say that generally this seems to be true. Muslims and Christians do get on, and their religion is not a barrier for friendship. Many Christians join their Muslim friends to share in Islamic festivals, and the vast majority of Muslims are happy to join Christians in their celebration on Christmas. There is real friendship there, and a great deal of respect. Gambia has a lot to teach the world in this regard.

Life in the countryside - I'm generally a real sucker for the simple life, and really enjoy time out in the countryside. The Gambian countryside is particularly beautiful, full of flora and fauna. My encounters with crocodiles and monkeys were particular highlights, but really every chance I got to get close to nature was special. It's such a shame that most people's holidays in the Gambia revolve around the beach resorts and the city's bars. If any of you get the chance to go to The Gambia, make sure you go for a trek up country!

Connections - Gambian people really do seem to support each other, and place a lot of importance on friendships and family. Everyone seems to stick together, and much time is spent doing work around the house/compound as a family. People will stop in the street to find out how their neighbours are doing, and if anyone needs help with something the locals will generally rally round. It is a refreshing change from the lack of community that we can sometimes feel in the West. As a toubab I was not able to fully integrate myself into this culture, but it really does seem special from the "outside looking in".

Tapalapas! - my daily bread. I would indulge in a filled "tapalapa" baguette most days, and just thinking of them now makes me start to salivate! My local vendors would provide a range of delicious fillings, from fishballs to spicy beans. The "breakfast bap" of scrambled eggs, onion and stock cube scratchings was a particular favourite. And all for the price of about 30p (approximately half an American dollar). I also developed an unhealthy love of coffee with condensed milk - super sweet and super delicious, but my dentist would not be happy... Whilst living on a Gambian diet for life would not be healthy (vegetables are few and far between), it was actually quite satisfying. I hope a tapalapa shack will open up soon in the UK!


So, many things for me to take back home and ponder about. Thank you Gambia for sharing so much with me! And many thanks to you all for journeying along with me the last few months. Lots of love and a big hug,


Robert

Tobaski-Tastic

Sunday was Tobaski, one of the most significant days in the Islamic Calendar. In Gambia, Tobaski is THE big day of celebration, when families get together, eat loads of food and exchange gifts. I was lucky enough to be invited to a gathering with a local Senegalese family I have met. My first duty – to help with the slaughtering of the rams. I’m of the opinion that if I’m prepared to eat meat, I should be prepared to participate in the slaughter of the animals. However, it’s not a particularly pleasant process! Holding down an animal, feeling its last struggles and the last breaths leave its body is a strange sensation. Even more so is just watching a living thing becoming an object, all in under a minute. It really brought home how fragile life is.

After the ritualistic killing had ended, we moved onto the cooking stage. Everyone sat out, preparing the various ingredients for the upcoming feast. I’ve never seen so much garlic chopped, enough to fight a whole army of vampires! Everything is done in a slow and relaxed manner, so food was actually served about 5pm (a long wait since the ram sacrifices at 10am). A huge amount was prepared, but we only ate a third of it. Tradition says that the remaining two thirds should go to neighbours and those too poor to buy food themselves.


All were dressed in their finest traditional clothes, and the chatting and eating went long into the night. Whilst the day had a Muslim feel to it (the day started with mass prayers in the nearby field), most families had Christian friends come to visit. Gambia is a religiously tolerant society, and any excuse for a party is generally well-liked by the population, no matter what religion they belong to!

As evening approached, I made my excuses and wandered back home, happy that I had experienced something new. Things will take a while to get back to normal after Tobaski, as many people have left to visit their families in the countryside. I’ve been told to wait for the radio to announce when I (a government worker) should go back to work. Let’s see how many days holiday I will get...

Many Tobaski wishes to you all, lots of love,

Robert