Pros and Cons - Part 2

Following on from last week's post, I'm using this blog entry to focus on some of the positives of life in The Gambia. Enjoy...

Inter-faith relations - This was the first time I lived in a predominantly Muslim country, an experience in its own right. I could go on for hours about poligamy (a widespread practice in The Gambia), or how it felt to have Arabic prayers being the soundtrack to much of my daily life. However, what I'd like to focus on in this blog is one of the success stories for The Gambia - the way in which religions respect each other. Whilst The Gambia is largely Muslim, it is still home to many Christians. One hears a lot about the problems and tensions between religious communities around the world (and even closer to home, in the UK), so I was curious as to how the communities would interact. All the guidebooks state that Gambia is a peace loving nation, in which everyone gets on. I'm delighted to say that generally this seems to be true. Muslims and Christians do get on, and their religion is not a barrier for friendship. Many Christians join their Muslim friends to share in Islamic festivals, and the vast majority of Muslims are happy to join Christians in their celebration on Christmas. There is real friendship there, and a great deal of respect. Gambia has a lot to teach the world in this regard.

Life in the countryside - I'm generally a real sucker for the simple life, and really enjoy time out in the countryside. The Gambian countryside is particularly beautiful, full of flora and fauna. My encounters with crocodiles and monkeys were particular highlights, but really every chance I got to get close to nature was special. It's such a shame that most people's holidays in the Gambia revolve around the beach resorts and the city's bars. If any of you get the chance to go to The Gambia, make sure you go for a trek up country!

Connections - Gambian people really do seem to support each other, and place a lot of importance on friendships and family. Everyone seems to stick together, and much time is spent doing work around the house/compound as a family. People will stop in the street to find out how their neighbours are doing, and if anyone needs help with something the locals will generally rally round. It is a refreshing change from the lack of community that we can sometimes feel in the West. As a toubab I was not able to fully integrate myself into this culture, but it really does seem special from the "outside looking in".

Tapalapas! - my daily bread. I would indulge in a filled "tapalapa" baguette most days, and just thinking of them now makes me start to salivate! My local vendors would provide a range of delicious fillings, from fishballs to spicy beans. The "breakfast bap" of scrambled eggs, onion and stock cube scratchings was a particular favourite. And all for the price of about 30p (approximately half an American dollar). I also developed an unhealthy love of coffee with condensed milk - super sweet and super delicious, but my dentist would not be happy... Whilst living on a Gambian diet for life would not be healthy (vegetables are few and far between), it was actually quite satisfying. I hope a tapalapa shack will open up soon in the UK!


So, many things for me to take back home and ponder about. Thank you Gambia for sharing so much with me! And many thanks to you all for journeying along with me the last few months. Lots of love and a big hug,


Robert

There and Back Again

On Wednesday evening I returned back from a great trip to the very end of Gambia, the intriguingly called “Region 6”. My base: Basse, a bustling market town to the very east of the country. My mission: to make a promotional film for the Rural Support Organisation for the Disabled (RSOD). The trip took about four days in total, a time period which included the large 7/8 hour long trek along the rural roads (often punctuated by the many police and army checkpoints). In my round trip I took in about half of Gambia, travelling along the south bank of the River Gambia. Have a look at the map, you can see how I travelled from Banjul all along the south of the river to Basse Santa Su. Whilst we're looking at maps, you might be interested to see that The Gambia is the smallest country in mainland Africa.

Filmmaker Extraordinaire – Upon arrival in Basse I got to work pretty quickly, camera in hand. Whilst I have done filming work in the UK, this was my first proper project in another country, so I was a bit apprehensive as to how it would go. However, the filming was great fun! It led me to meet some really inspiring people and find out about some really great projects that RSOD is running. The staff and volunteers who work there really are hardworking and kind people, many of whom had to get over the difficulties and stigma that their own disabilities present them with. Amongst many things my film will cover the school for the deaf that RSOD runs, the women’s support group, the handicraft workshops they run and the rural support projects they have started. I’ve got to get the film ready for mid-November, and will try to put it up online shortly afterwards. Keep your eyes peeled...

Rob’s Country Bumpkin Thoughts – My trip also offered me a chance to taste a bit of life “up-country”, away from the big city’s more Westernised way of life. I’ve got to admit that I always feel happier and calmer when in rural locations, and Basse was no exception. The people seemed kinder and more approachable. Personally speaking, it was also so great to be able to drop the suspicion of overly-friendly Gambians that one gets from living around the Bumsters in Kombo. I could just enjoy the warm-heartedness of the local people with no creeping doubts at the back of my mind.

Far away from the office environment and the bureaucracy surrounding city work, everything seemed to be much more “honest” and “simple” in Basse, things actually got done. VSO volunteers based there might well say “try living here more than three days” and they’d most probably be right though. Anyway, I left questioning exactly how much I’d like to see the development of Gambia going in the way that the World Order would like. Do I really want to see Basse become like the capital city, and thus lose some of the real beauty and community spirit that I saw in the town?

Many people would say that it must be difficult to live in an “undeveloped” place like Basse. For example, Basse experiences power cuts all the time. I’m sure for many people it really is challenging. However, most of the local people have adapted to this situation, and seem to be content finding other ways in which to go about their lives. The power cuts are mostly a problem for Westerners like me, who come in with certain needs like “regular internet access” and the desire to always have an electric light to read to. Obviously there is a balance, as people need the basics such as a job, food, healthcare, education (things that sometimes can’t be delivered without the tax money that the big city generates). However, I’m not entirely convinced that the Western way of life is what everyone in the world should be aiming for (and when I write that I also include Westerners). Feel free to write abuse to me if you feel I’m being completely idealistic / insensitive with my views though, I’ll welcome any thoughts you have!

Ram Shopping – Our return journey back home took longer than expected, mainly due to the wishes of the Gambian VSO staff members I was with (two excellent and very friendly people bytheway). Ebou wanted to make the most of the bargain prices in the countryside markets, and was particularly on the lookout for rams. Every Gambian Muslim family wants to have a ram to slaughter as part of the upcoming Tobaski celebrations. However, rams are very expensive and as such out of reach of many people. Tobaski is a time when the wealth divide hits home – the “haves” and the “have nots” surface clearly, and many families and individuals face shame at not having enough money for a ram or new clothes.

Ebou’s ploy of buying in the countryside was a wise one. A price for a normal sized ram in the countryside can be around 2300 Dalasis (£50 / $75), a far cry from the very expensive prices near the capital (around 6000 Dalasis, or about £130 / $195). With three rams in the back of our jeep we returned heroes, delivering one to each of Ebou’s colleagues. The rams, however, were less joyous, needing to be carried around as they stubbornly refused to walk. They were probably aware of what awaits them in a few days time...

You can see some images of my trip at https://picasaweb.google.com/schliner/AdventuresInBasse. Enjoy!

Now that I’ve returned to Kombo I’ve got to sit down and edit the four hours of film that I took, should be fun... However, I’ve got the small matter of the Muslim festival of Tobaski tomorrow, which should provide a nice distraction – expect a full report on that soon. Lots of love to you all,

Robert

Tobaski Fever Hotting Up

Everyone is getting ready for the celebration of Tobaski, the Festival of Sacrifice (otherwise known as Eid al-Adha). It promises to be a big celebration, with all Gambians (both Muslim and non-Muslim) going back to their family homes to celebrate. Tobaski is due to fall on the 6^th of November , so everyone is in preparation mode, buying new clothes and amassing lots of tasty food (most families will try to buy a live ram to slaughter and eat on the day). It’s an expensive affair, and so can be a real struggle for people. This is particularly true for the head of the family, who may lose face if he doesn’t have enough money to provide the necessary goods. Thus, promotional offers like the one in the photo above are very popular. I’ve never seen live animals offered as prizes by mobile phone companies before!

Diwali in The Gambia  – Last Wednesday was Diwali. As one of my fellow volunteers, Soumita, is from India it was the perfect excuse to do a party!  Soumita decorated her house with lots of candles, doing her best to do justice to the Festival of Light. We had some nice food and I was treated to a bit more of an explanation as to what Diwali is all about (in particular, the fascinating story of Rama and Sita). I guess this evening illustrates an interesting side to life out here. Many of the foreigners here do their best to support each other, knowing that most are in the same boat of being a stranger in a foreign land, someone who is far away from home. It also shows the randomness of how things can be – a British person celebrating a Hindu festival in Africa! Anyway, it was a lovely evening and I was honoured to be part of it.

Off to the countryside – yes, finally I’m escaping the city and will be going off to rural Gambia for a few days. Horaay! I’ve been asked to do some work on creating a promotional film for a rural disability organisation, based in Basse (to the very east of the country). I’ll be covering the support the organisation offers and the lives of some of the disabled people there, should be fascinating.  Anyway, I depart on Sunday and a six hour car drive awaits. I’m really looking forward to seeing more of the countryside and experiencing a bit of rural life. Expect some photos next week... 

Lots of love and a big hug from an excited volunteer! I hope all is well with you, take care,

Robert